Today we’re reviewing the new Longines Chrono Moonphase, part of the newly revamped Master Collection that’s stirred up quite a tussle online. This has always been, and still is, Longines’ most complex regular production watch, due to the functions offered by the automatic Calibre L687.5. Sit back and pour yourself a coffee, or if it’s after hours for you, perhaps a scotch, and enjoy the ride.
The specific watch that we had in our studio is the ref. L2.962.4.73.2, this is the variant that comes with the blue alligator strap. The watch of course is also offered on a three-link stainless steel bracelet, which is the ref. L2.962.4.73.6, and is the one I’d recommend if you’re contemplating purchasing this watch, simply because it’s usually easier, and cheaper, to source the leather strap after purchase.
Its Complex Speciality
The Chrono Moonphase is a sophisticated watch, it has a complete mechanical calendar with the inclusion of the moonphase indicator, as well as day of the week, month, and AM-PM indication. In addition to this, the watch is also equipped with a chronograph function including side pushers, and normal time display is in the form of hours on the central hand, minutes on a central hand, and running seconds displayed on a subdial at 9 o’clock.
You’ll notice, by looking at the photos of the watch, that the layout is rather clever with the use of “double-duty” displays, which is pretty much how Longines manages to squeeze so many complications into a rather small dial. Despite being offered on a steel bracelet, and the chronograph function, this is far from a traditional sports watch, but it’s also not high horology, and the price of $4,250 also reflects that. This is an accessible complications watch with a very elegant and classical leaning demeanour. Many watch brands can offer you a watch within this price point, but almost none can offer this many complications within the price tier, and that’s exactly what makes this watch special.
The closest true legacy brand competitor to the Chrono Moonphase, if you were to match up complication vs complication is actually a $15,500 USD watch, which is the Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42. As you begin to drop complications off the list we veer towards the Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar 42 offered at $6,400 USD. Ultimately, the closest competitor price wise is the Frédérique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture at $4,995 USD, but it lacks the Chronograph in exchange for an arguably more in-house manufacture experience.
Inspecting the Fit and Finish
Longines, in general, has a fairly standardized degree of metal finishing across their full range of collections, with their Master and Heritage collections usually featuring a slightly elevated and detailed finish. The Chrono Moonphase has an entirely polished case, and the quality and evenness of the polish is very good. It’s not exceptional as you’d find on a higher tier hand-finished brand, but it’s impressive for a “serial-production” process.
The dial is really where things take off in another direction, it’s the section that certainly differentiates this watch away from any competitors simply due to the complications on display. We can have questionable thoughts about the overall build quality of a Longines, but where this brand always outperforms, is their ability to display and record time in unique creative ways while simultaneously keeping an elegant demeanour.
First off, the dial is adorned from edge to edge, by what is called a Barleycorn pattern. Upon close inspection, this so called Barleycorn pattern appears to be an engraving, even though Longines mentions it on official press material as some sort of guilloche-style pattern, it’s hard to imagine that this was achieved using a traditional engine-turning on a straight-line or rose guilloche machine. Nonetheless, it looks fantastic, with small engravings giving off the appearance of a characterful textured dial, and a really nice backdrop for the moonphase indicator, applied Arabic numerals, and classy handset.
The moonphase indicator is another highlight of this watch, utilizing a dark blue rotating disc, emulating the night sky, decorated with gold colored moon and stars, underneath a shaped aperture. It’s a very pretty looking display, with an old world charm to it, but in the name of efficiency it’s sharing the subdial space at 6 o’clock with the 12-hour chronograph counter.
Actuating the chronograph requires a very brisk push on the top pusher, and I found myself fumbling a bit with it when attempting to record some in-action video footage. Not inherently a bad thing, as it certainly provides a solid tactile feel, but it’s also not the most satisfying of actuations. Resetting the chrono also required the same amount of effort.
Everyday Wearability
The truth of the matter is, as many of you probably already know, this is not the easiest watch to daily wear, although it can be done if you chose to. Instead of the previous small and large size options for the Master Chrono, Longines has decided to slim down the collection and offer this one middle-ground sizing of a 41mm case diameter, 13.8mm thickness, and a lug to lug of 48.6mm. When I first placed the watch on my wrist I was very pleasantly surprised that it actually wore slightly smaller than I was expecting, I think mostly due to the rather compact lug to lug distance. It’s still not quite the ideal size for my 6.5 inch wrist, but it you have a wrist size of 6.75 inches or larger, this is a really fantastic watch you should be looking at.
The most interesting aspect about this watch, which is its multi-use complications, can be a burden if you let the power reserve deplete requiring you to reset all the parameters. You can either wear the watch non stop, hand wind it frequently, or simply keep it in an automatic winder when off the wrist. This is not really a watch designed for everyday wear like a sports watch anyways, it’s more of a special occasions watch, or a great companion to a nice suit. While I did not get to experience the variant on the stainless steel bracelet, the leather strap on this one is extremely comfortable, and I’d speculate the best version to choose if you’re after comfort as a priority.
Final Thoughts
This is a really beautiful watch, and it’s somewhat of a unicorn offering in the watch world if you value complications, and you want many of them without having to step into the 5 digit spend range. The tradeoff for those complications is simply the manufacturing process, and the highly regarded modified Valjoux 7751, that by the way utilizes the superior column wheel, instead of a cam and lever system. The L687.5 is an excellent movement, and it’s decorated enough to keep intrigue, with Cote de Geneve, perlage, and a visible blue column wheel, but it’s not an exotic in-house movement as you’d find in the higher priced complication watches.
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