Bulova has for almost a century and a half been at the forefront of innovation and watch technology. The visionary who started Bulova was known to take chances when it came to creating a brand that was different but still dependable. The classic watches set the standard but with our high-speed, ever changing world something more needs to be done to stand out from the rest of the field.
True to the risk-taking ethos of the Bulova, the team of watchmakers have produced a marvellous piece for us to talk about. The modern 96A204 Bulova men’s watch is a pleasure to look at but is also reliably accurate.
Bezel
This 96A204 model has put itself out there in terms of unique design. It is a perfectly round stainless steel bezel with a blue finish. At 42mm it isn’t too large but because it is holding a 21 jewel automatic systems it does come across on the thicker side. The 21 jewel calibre has a 40 hour power reserve and a screw-back case that also allows us a look in to the intricate designs of the mechanism. The dark blue colour is a pleasant shift from the typically silver stainless steel cases and will look good with most style of dress. That being said it isn’t a watch for every occasion in that it won’t suit casual clothing and you will have to put a certain amount of planning with the colours you decide to go with.
It has a sturdy look and thanks to the brush finish it isn’t overly flashy or shiny. The case also has a water resistance rating of 30 meters which won’t bode well for fishing trips but will safely keep your Bulova safe from harm through unexpected encounters with water and dust.
Dial
The silver on blue really does look special, particularly with the silver 21 jewel calibre in the background. There is a slight dash of gold/yellow as one of the cogs in the automatic mechanism. The rest of the dial is also a brushed dark blue with line markers in place of the number hour markers. At the 12 o’clock we have the standard Bulova logo that we have become accustomed to seeing carefully placed on the Bulova timepieces.
The 96A204 next to the WATCHPOD single watch case
The 96A204 automatic mechanical system running in the background can sometimes be a bit mesmerizing to look at because of all the different things that need to work together for the engine to keep working. The Bulova name has been placed at 9 o’clock and there are a few screws that can be seen on the dial to hold everything in place. Around the outer edges are some engraved rings that match the darker blue of the bezel.
The sword hands have a lumo line on them and the same next to each hour maker.
96A204 Bracelet and Crown
The bracelet and crown are a matched silver stainless steel and also have a brushed finish. A regular flat top crown is in positioned on the side of the case and it has an intricately stamped Bulova logo on the top. The Bulova logo might seem like a common addition to their watches but in the past this was one of the signs of true craftsmanship and even though it is much easier to place the logo there now it is still an ode to the talented watchmakers that made Bulova what it is today.
The bracelet has a fold-over double press release clamp that lets the bracelet keep its consistent look with no break in links. The bracelet is not very wide if you take the width of the case into consideration which places more attention on the case.
Final Thoughts
The price for the 96A204 Bulova can come off as a bit steep at first which is also a bit surprising considering they have gone with mineral glass instead of sapphire crystal. The $ 371 price tag doesn’t come without merit however. The design of the dial is done with such attention to detail and the mechanical movement that runs it also plays a big part in determining this price tag. Bulova’s commitment to making timepieces that will draw attention is commendable and the fact that they are not opposed to doing something that other watchmakers haven’t yet tried has my intrigue.
The bracelet is tasteful and I really like the way the double press clasp gives the bracelet the look of it being one unbroken chain once it is fastened. In my opinion not enough attention is given to the complex automatic mechanisms that power some of the watches that we wear and Bulova has designed a watch here that displays the mechanism constantly.
It is unique and will always be a piece that will be uncommon among common watches.
To have a look at the full Bulova range visit their official website here.
Hey Matt, Thanks for the review, I’m thinking of picking up this piece! Curious to know your thoughts on how Bulova’s mechanical watches compare to Seiko.
Hey Adam, they are very comparable quality wise if you’re looking in the same price bracket. With Bulova you will get something a little more unique in style and function compared to a Seiko. With Seiko you may get a slightly more reliable and durable watch, but then again it all comes down to the specific model you choose.
With so many automatic movements now available to BULOVA via Citizen and it’s holdings, I hope the automatic offerings continue. I myself have this movement in another Bulova, it’s given me no problems and love the wild spin of the rotor these Miyotas have.
Hey Jasper, I really hope they continue their automatic offerings or even increase them! There are some really neat watches coming from Bulova these days.
Just picked up this watch and it is indeed stunning. Thought I would add a few comments that are missing from your review.
1. The movement is a Miyota 8N26 movement which appears to be a modification of the 8N24 skeleton movement. This movement is of the 8215 family which has a long history of reliability and should be able to be easily serviced. However, at this price point, I would have hoped that this watch would have adopted the newer 9015 family for reasons below. The 90S5 is not nearly as “exposed” so this is probably the reason they went with the offshoot of the 8N24.
2. The sweep hand is indirectly driven and due to it’s length/weight can exhibit quite a bit of stutter as the seconds hand enters the “down sweep” (between 2 and 6 if holding vertically). This is not an indication of malfunction but a known “feature” of this type of movement. It does not affect accuracy but can be a bit distracting for those looking for a smooth uniform movement in all orientations. Since I know it doesn’t affect accuracy, I’m not particularly bothered by it.
3. The movement is non-hacking, which makes synchronizing the seconds nearly impossible. Some users of this movement have used techniques such as applying back pressure while setting to stop the seconds hand, but this can only be done when near the end of the reserve. Others have “waited” until the watch stops and synchronizes then. It’s really kind of pointless when you consider the +40/-20 second a day deviation that the movement is designed for. For me, I set the minute hand as precisely as I can ignoring the position of the seconds hand. I treat it as if the second hand doesn’t exist. Since the seconds hand is indirectly driven, it does not affect the placement of the minute hand. Thus the movement shows accurate minutes representation even if the seconds “position” is off. The way I see it, if you want split second accuracy, you’re not buying an automatic watch of any type, let alone one with a non-hacking movement.
Other than these three things, the watch is an absolute joy to wear, it is accurate enough for what it does, and it is comforting to know that the movement is based on a very well established movement, meaning the local watch repair shop should be able to service it if necessary, and staring too long into the watch is indeed mesmerizing.
Hey William, these are excellent points. Thanks for adding this!
I didn’t think the last post went through due to length, so feel free to kill this latest comment and reply.