As any watch enthusiast can tell you, there are some timepieces that are such a ridiculously good deal that you can’t possibly pass them up. The Seiko SKX line of years past is a prime example, and a rite of passage for many a watch collector. I had the pleasure of owning the SKX013 some years ago and, while I understood the internet’s collective fascination with it, there were a couple of flaws that forced me to sell it. So when Seiko announced the spiritual successor to the SKX line, the Seiko 5 Sports collection, I jumped up in excitement (cautious excitement, that is, no watch is truly perfect), and patiently waited to see one in the flesh before buying it. Here I am, a year later, ready to sing its praises. But first, the specs:
- Reference: SRPK29 (US) / SBSA225 (Japan)
- Case material: stainless steel
- Case diameter: 38 mm
- Thickness: 12.1 mm
- Lug to lug: 44.2 mm
- Lug width: 20 mm
- Crystal: Hardlex
- Movement: 4R36
- Power reserve: 41 hours
- Frequency: 21,600 bph (3 Hz)
- Water resistance: 10 bar
Case
I’ve always thought that the SKX013 had much better proportions than its larger brother, the 007. Something about the svelte silhouette of the case, along with the proportionally longer lugs spoke to me much more clearly than the awkward, stocky shape of the 007. However, the measurement along the z-axis (13 mm) proved too much of a nuisance, making the watch uncomfortably top-heavy. So, when I saw that the new Seiko 5 would shave a full millimeter out of the thickness, I was stoked. The SBSA225 wears like a dream, its tastefully short lugs never reaching past my wrist diameter. Even at its smallish size (by today’s standards), its weight feels ever so reassuring. The polished sides add panache to an otherwise fairly utilitarian watch, with its monochromatic scheme and everything.
The crown at 4 o’clock prioritizes comfort, never sticking into my wrist like some other watches with larger crowns. There is a not-so-subtle distinction from the crown of the SKX line, however: it can’t be screwed down, directly impacting the overall water resistance of the watch. I am of two minds about this situation. On one hand, I absolutely adore diver watches because I never have to worry about water ruining them. In fact, except for my trusty Casios and a dressy Mido, all the watches in my current collection are divers. Not that I get awfully close to large bodies of water on a daily basis, mind you, but still, there’s something kind of heroic, romantic even, about the apparent invulnerability of a tool watch. On the other hand, a normal crown allows you to easily wind the watch, which in fact is another welcome upgrade from the SKX line: you can finally wind and even hack your affordable Seiko (pseudo) diver! I mean, I’m aware that the old 7S26 was by no means an accurate caliber, and sure, the 4R36 isn’t chronometer-certified, but –and please excuse the hot take– I just can’t shake the feeling that a non-hackable watch is a glorified toy, a novel trinket that admittedly can tell the time, but a trinket nevertheless. Don’t get me wrong, I was a huge fan of my SKX013, but I felt disappointed every time I was forced to shake it in order to restart it, not even being able to set the precise time at all.
Flipping the SBSA225 on its belly reveals another surprise: there is a clear caseback! Even a year later, I still like to take off the watch to stare at the machine inside. I mean, the 4R36 is not exactly a beauty queen, but it is utilitarian and pairs well with the monochromatic scheme of the dial.
Speaking of the movement, I’ve found the 4R36 performance to be… adequate. I must say, I got really excited the morning after I first put the watch on my wrist, as it hadn’t gained or lost a single second 24 hours later. The joy was short-lived, though, as not a week later it started to consistently lose 8 seconds a day. This adds up rather quickly, forcing me to hack the watch and set the time again with quite a bit of wiggle room (I’m talking about a whole minute or so). I’ll have that fixed eventually, I guess, as soon as I send the watch to get serviced, which should take place in the far future as the 4R36 is a (yes, I will say the word) workhorse of a movement.
I have to commend Seiko for the fantastic action of the bezel. It feels and sounds much more expensive than it should be. Smooth and lush, it offers absolutely no play in the clockwise direction.
Dial
I love the contrast between the raised indices and the matte black dial. Even the new “House of El” logo is beautiful, although I know it is not everyone’s cup of tea, as the former “5” was a fan-favorite.
There was a single nitpick that prevented me from buying the SBSA225 right away: the handset. The new Seiko 5 inherits the SKX007 handset, which I used to think isn’t quite as sophisticated as the 013 handset. I used to find the 007’s minute hand ugly and misshapen, while the lollipop in the seconds hand couldn’t compete with the elegant arrow of the 013. I’m glad to say that I’ve changed my mind and now I absolutely adore this handset. I’m especially fond of the lollipop counterweight of the seconds hand, as the black stem disappears against the matte black background, causing it to appear to “float” above the dial.
But the real reason I missed my old SKX for so many years is the day/date complication. I’m absent-minded to the point that I often forget what day it is, so this was the perfect excuse to get the Seiko 5. Moreover, I decided on the Japanese version, the SBSA225, to have the days of the week written in Kanji.
Many derisive comments have been said about the cursive “Automatic” at 6 o’clock. While I agree the word is superfluous in the watch community, I find it harmless. I even enjoy the balance between the all-caps at 12, the kanjis at 3, and the cursive at 6.
At night, the Lumibrite coated indices glow brightly for a long time. However, there is no lumed pip as this is not a true diver watch. Nothing that an aftermarket bezel can’t solve, but something to keep in mind nevertheless.
Bracelet
Possibly my only gripe with the watch, the bracelet is nothing to write home about. Gone is the delightful jubilee of the SKX, and in its place we get an oyster bracelet. It gets the job done, but I can’t award any points to beauty and finesse. At the very least, I wish it tapered to 16 mm.
The triple-fold clasp is typical for Seiko, which is to say, the watch feels secure on the wrist at all times.
Conclusion and farewell
I think the SBSA225 is more than the sum of its parts. It inherits the design language of a long line of Seiko diver watches going all the way back to 1970, and even solves some of my issues with the legendary SKX013, though I’ll admit that I still think twice about taking it to the pool, especially when I can always opt for my beloved Seamaster. Still, the Seiko has become my daily driver for almost a year now and I don’t see that stopping any time soon.
And well, on a personal note… after almost 10 years of constantly chasing the next timepiece, I think I’m finally at peace with my small collection of watches. I still like to read watch news every now and then, and as the saying goes, never say never again, but for now, I feel satisfied and will pursue other interests. In that regard, I’d like to end this run with a major shout-out to my editor, Matthew Cattelier, who is a terrific guy and has been extremely kind, supportive, and patient with yours truly. And of course, huge thanks to you, dear reader, for taking the time to read my thoughts.
And now my watch is ended. Godspeed!
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