The Sea-Dweller, like the rest of the Rolex lineup, has a deep storied heritage within its niche. The Daytona might be the most coveted, and the Submariner could very well be the most popular, but the Sea-Dweller is boasting the most prestigious pedigree for those who are fond of extreme deep-sea diving.
In 1967 a new sports watch icon was born, and with it came a notable innovation in the watch world, namely the helium escape valve which debuted on the very first Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665. This is a feature that allowed the watch to be used by professional divers during critical saturation diving environments. A traditional dive watch without this feature is unable to release tiny helium particles that develop within the watch at extreme depths, this limits the watches water resistance rating. The introduction of the Helium Escape Valve allowed the Sea-Dweller to automatically release these trapped helium particles through a special valve located on the side of the watch case, allowing the watch to reach incredible depths of 2000 feet without imploding, or taking on any type of damage.
When the first model was initially released it did not garner any kind of popularity or hype outside of the diving community, and back then, like most Rolex watches it was considered a very specific high-precision diving tool. Fast forward to today, the original Ref. 1665 is now one of the most sought after and collectible vintage variants, and came to be known as the “Double Red” Sea-Dweller due to the two lines of red text on the dial, and was also occasionally referred to as the Submariner 2000 – as an acknowledgment to the new official water resistance rating of 2000 feet.
There was however an ultra-rare prototype variant known as the “Single-Red”, yes – with one line of red on the dial, that of which was the Sea-Dweller logo and it had the absence of the “Submariner 2000” text.
Initial Movement and Incremental Design Updates
Let’s put the design and dive functions aside for a moment and take a look under the dial of the first ever Double Red Sea-Dweller. Rolex needed to figure out which movement an extremely professional and sophisticated dive watch like this is going to benefit from, and they ended up going with the in-house made caliber 1575, which was an evolution of the already existing Caliber 1565 featuring several improvements that enhanced its reliability and functionality.
Durability and reliability was really the focus for Rolex when developing the 1575 simply to ensure maximum safety of use while diving at these extreme depths. Convenient features such as the quick-set date function were not a priority as emphasis was placed on its main time telling and count down function for professional divers. Focusing on the Sea-Dwellers smooth functioning, and ensuring that it was less prone to any mechanical issues really helped solidify Rolex’s reputation as the manufacturer of the best sports watch in the world going forward for the next 50 years.
The Caliber 1575 was engineered to beat at 19,800 beats per hour which was typical for precision movements of the time. The movement featured a date function, which was a significant aspect of the Sea-Dweller’s appearance, distinguishing it from non-date professional watches. The lack of quick-set feature means the only way to set the date is by moving the hands around the dial past midnight – something that we still see today even on some haute horlogerie watches. Another very important aspect that the 1575 needed to have was accuracy, and it was generally regarded as having a -4/+6 seconds per day variation, which is considered the standard for COSC even in our current modern times.
Hidden Variants Within Ref. 1665
While the “Double Red” took the spotlight both as a popular tool, and now as a well known collectible within the Rolex community, there were two lesser known sub variants within the Ref. 1665.
The first one introduced in the late 1970s earned itself the nickname “Great White” mainly due to the all-white text on its dial, and removal of the text “Submariner 2000”. The rest of the watch was unchanged, but It wasn’t produced very long which of course helped it become highly sought after.
Throughout the history of the Sea-Dweller you’ll also notice a mysterious partnership pop up within certain references now famously known as COMEX. This was a collaboration between Rolex and the French diving company “Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises”. This partnership focused on addressing the needs of saturation divers, leading to the development and refinement of the helium escape valve.
The first reference baring the COMEX logo on the dial was indeed the Ref. 1665, and it as well has become highly sought after and collectible.
Introduction of the “Triple Six” and Caliber 3035
The 1575 had a very long run of use, but eventually it was decided at the Rolex headquarters that an update was needed. In the early 1980’s Rolex finally introduced the Ref. 16660 “Triple Six” with the new Caliber 3035 for the Sea-Dweller after a very long run of the original 1575. The introduction of the Caliber 3035 brought along several much needed key advancements.
One of the most notable being the desired Quick-Set-Date feature. Now, finally, professional deep-sea divers could change the date in a flash independently of the hour hand by pulling out the crown an extra notch, as many of us are now familiar with. While this was of course not a crucial feature for diving, it was a general modernization of the Sea-Dweller that brought it up to speed with the rest of the Rolex catalogue offerings.
The 3035 also incorporated a higher beat rate, clocking in at 28,800 bph compared to the 19,800 bph of the Caliber 1575. This provided a visually smoother gliding of the seconds hand but also improved accuracy. Many years had passed during the use of the older 1575, and during that time Rolex drastically advanced their manufacturing techniques, this translated to better quality parts and improved precision assembly for the new 3035. The 3035 was also finally officially chronometer certified, this certification ensured it had gone through the proper testing to meet the stringent specs, and provided even further peace of mind to professional divers who at times trusted their lives to this watch.
Design Updates
The Triple Six also went through some important design and spec updates as well, with the first ever sapphire crystal on the Sea-Dweller line and an increased depth rating to 4,000 feet. Rolex also increased the case size to accommodate the new crystal and to withstand the pressure at greater depths.
One of the most obvious changes that is notable for todays collectors is the text adjustment on the dial, with early models retaining the “Sea-Dweller” and “Submariner 2000” text. Later versions were revised, simply reading “Sea-Dweller” with a depth rating. The Triple Six also used tritium lume for the hour markers and hands which allowed for visibility in low-light conditions underwater.
Ref. 16600 and Caliber 3135
In 1988, not too long after the shift to the Caliber 3035, the Caliber 3135 was introduced on the new Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600. The 3135 maintained crucial features like the date quick-set and the already adequate beat rate, but brought along with it some very important part upgrades such as the Microstella Regulating System, Breguet Overcoil, and the Full-Balance Bridge. Rolex managed to also squeeze out an additional 6 hours of power reserve due to the efficiency of this new movement. The 3135 was widely considered as a “goldilocks” movement and was not only in use on the Sea-Dweller, but implemented across the Submariner and Datejust line as well.
The Ref. 16600 was really the model that transitioned the classic original Sea-Dweller into the modern version that we have today, some collectors refer to it as the “bridge” from the vintage to the modern. Part of the reason for this was its very long production run from 1988 until its discontinuation in 2008, a run of 20 years is very long in the world of Rolex. In comparison, even a modern reference such as the iconic Daytona 116500 only had a production run of 8 years. Little did anyone know that the Ref. 16600 would be the last classic Sea-Dweller created after 2008, with its successor, the Ref. 116600, only being launched 8 years later in 2014.
Consequently, the Ref. 16600 underwent various transformations using the same reference number. Due to the controversial use of tritium lume plots on earlier models, Rolex transitioned the 16600 to the use of LumiNova, and then eventually changed it again to SuperLuminova. While not as bright and stark as tritium, it was a safer material and still offered fantastic sun-charged luminosity even deep under water.
Rolex is now currently known as one of the best sport watch bracelet manufacturers in existence, even out shining offerings from brands such as Patek and Audemars Piguet. The Ref. 16600 received incremental upgrades to its bracelet as time went on during its production. Initially, it came with stamped parts, but these were upgraded to more solid construction and included solid end links by the late 1990s, offering a more robust feel and better wrist presence. The clasp was also improved with a functional feature known as the divers’ extension, which provided greater ease of use and durability.
The bezel on the Reference 16600 remained largely the same as the Triple Six, featuring a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute graduated black insert, but the material technology for the bezel insert was continually improved for better scratch resistance and color retention. The Sapphire crystal’s thickness was also increased over its production run to enhance durability.
The case retained its usual thick and robust diving appearance but did have very minor dimensional adjustments done to it throughout the production timeframe. The same went for the dial, where very minor adjustments we’re being implemented – but it was apparent at this point that Rolex had entered an incremental mindset to retain the original classic look of the Sea-Dweller.
Deepsea Ref. 116660
2008 marked the temporary end of the classic Sea-Dweller, but Rolex had something unusual in the works in the form of a side variant known as the Deepsea. While the Deepsea still retained Sea-Dweller on the dial, this was an entirely redesigned watch. It featured a new 44mm size, grade 5 titanium caseback, and the new and innovative Ringlock system – with a staggering 12,800 foot depth rating.
The Modern Ref. 116600
After a long 8 year hiatus for the Sea-Dweller range, the Ref. 116600 was introduced in 2014. The announcement was greeted with open arms by dedicated collectors and enthusiasts of the vintage models – after all, the Sea-Dweller had now amassed a trove of cult like followers due to its storied history. This new modern references ended up having a very short run of only 3 years due to its discontinuation in 2017.
The 116600 brought back everything collectors loved about the vintage models, but in a more modern and refined package suited for todays actual use of Rolex watches. Gone were the days of skilled deep-sea divers using mechanical watches at life threatening depths of the sea. Rolex had now entered a new phase of the “luxury tool watch” segment, with many seeking these dive watches as nostalgic memories of the past.
Design
To many collectors joy, Rolex decided to retain the classic case sizing, mimicking very closely the look and feel on wrist of older models. Instead of making the shape of the case identical to that of the modern Submariner and GMT Master II line, they kept it rather classic and implemented a slim tapered lugs profile. The actual thickness of the case was indeed thicker than the Submariner in order to retain the 4000 feet of water resistance, and it has a near identical slab like appearance when viewed from the side.
The balance of traditional Sea-Dweller design language blended with modern manufacturing also saw the first implementation of a Cerachrom bezel insert for the Sea-Dweller. The ceramic insert improved the scratch resistance and color retention of the bezel, but it did increase the tendency of the bezel to shatter easier if struck on a hard surface such as marble – this was unlike its previous bezel which was easier to scratch but less prone to breaking. Collectors viewed this as one aspect of the shift from an actual tool watch, into the world of luxury and show. Cerachrom bezels were eventually introduced to many other sports watches within the Rolex repertoire.
The dial, being modernized as well, took on a very similar look as the “maxi-dial” 11 series Submariners. The hands and markers hand been significantly enlarged compared to vintage models of the Sea-Dweller, and they were now filled with Chromalight luminescence for improved low light visibility. Also, similarly to the Submariner, the dial now featured the 4 lines of text at the 6’oclock position reading; Sea-Dweller, 4000 ft = 1220m, superlative chronometer, officially certified.
Two features that remained distinctive for the Sea-Dweller from inception until the Ref. 116600 and modern variants we have now is the lack of magnification bubble over the date window, and the helium escape valve on the side of the case.
Modernized Oyster Bracelet
The bracelet took on a full modernization as well with the use of an entire solid link construction, a vast improvement over both the stamped and solid “end-link” version of the past. In addition to the solid construction, the bracelet included the Oysterlock safety clasp and the Glidelock extension system, allowing for fine adjustments of the bracelet length without tools for a comfortable fit over a diving suit. This clasp feature, also offered on modern Submariners from this era, provides a quick way to adjust the size during summer as wrist size swells and contracts with temperature shifts – making this specific Oyster bracelet one of the most comfortable to wear in the Rolex catalogue.
Caliber 3135 Makes a Reappearance
There were many modernized improvements on the Ref. 116600, but surprisingly the movement was not part of them. The simple reason for this being the Caliber 3135’s tried and true reliability that had at this point been tested for many years now. It proved itself to be one of the most reliable movements ever created by the crown, and so they reimplemented it back into this newer variant.
Taking a closer look at this reveals some interesting facts, and after some research it appears that the Caliber 3135 from the 1980’s which featured in the Ref. 16600 has also been improved at the part level, namely the addition of a Parachrom Hairspring. This new hairspring is made from a paramagnetic alloy that is much less susceptible to magnetic fields and shock. It also has improved temperature stability. This was the one single part that was changed in the new 3135, but along with that came the natural evolution of better lubrication oils and increased fine tuning during servicing using the Microstella system.
Continuation of the Modern Deepsea
In 2014 the Deepsea made a comeback with the introduction of an unexpected and unusual edition called the “D-Blue”, to commemorate James Cameron’s historic solo dive to the Mariana Trench in 2012. This new release was designed almost identical to the 2008 version, with an extra large case at 44mm, Ringlock system, and it featured a water resistance rating of 3,900 meters (12,800 feet). The dial had a striking gradient fading from a deep black to a ocean blue, symbolizing the color shift during a diving session – which is the watches only distinctive design change from the previous Deepsea.
Then in 2018 the Deepsea underwent another update, this version being known as the Ref. 126660, and it was launched at Baselworld that year. This time, the watch went through various design changes, most notably the readjusting of the case and lugs to create a more balanced look. In addition to that, the bracelet width was increased and the clasp implemented a new Oysterlock safety clasp.
Fast forward 6 years to 2024 and Rolex has just released the new Ref. 136668LB, a striking yellow gold variant of the Deepsea with a blue dial very reminiscent of the Submariner Date “Bluesy”.
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