When thinking about collectible Rolex, the Datejust model is not what usually comes to mind. Usually we begin to wander off into the professional, or “sports” line of watches. Watches like the Daytona and Submariner are the quintessential collectible Rolex watches, but there’s a little hidden corner that only the well versed watch enthusiasts likes to mingle in, and that’s the modern and vintage line of Datejust models.
While the Datejust is not widely known for collectible status there are some really incredible gems in this iconic line of watches that are indeed very sought after. There’s also some newer modern variants that have the potential to become future classics. As a Rolex lover for many years I’ve investigated deep into the enthusiasts community to search for some of these cool and unique models, and I’ve created this top 5 list for you, to help you discover them easily without dedicating your life like I did. Before we jump into the specifics models on hand here, let’s just reacquaint ourselves with the history of the Datejust first.
A Brief History of the Datejust
A couple noteworthy aspects of the Datejust include the fact that it was the first ever watch to feature an automatically changing date function. Not only was it the first watch to have this feature but it displayed it in a unique way that has now become iconic for Rolex and the entire watch industry, which is the magnified bubble window at 3’oclock. This widely known cyclops bubble was only introduced in 1953, 8 years after the introduction of the Datejust.
In 1957 a slimmer movement known as the Caliber 1065 was introduced on the Datejust, allowing for the watch to be constructed with a much slimmer case, enhancing its elegance. The 1970’s was a big year for the Datejust with the launch of the first ever Jubilee bracelet and a nice variety of new dial designs. The Thunderbird was also first launched in the 1970’s which is a model we will touch on in this article due to its collectible status.
Jumping over to the modern era post year 2000, Rolex releases a larger version of the Datejust in 41mm and a new movement, the Calibre 3235. The present day Datejust now incorporates plenty of heritage from all the previous models in a more modern package with plenty of refinements. Some of these modern refinements include an even slimmer profile and the use of the new Calibre 3235.
Now that we’re caught up on the history of the Datejust let’s take a look at some of the most collectible models below.
Palm Motif Dial
Starting with one of my personal favourites, and a model that is currently still in production at the time of this writing is the Palm Motif Dial – specifically the green dial with fluted bezel, and Jubilee bracelet. This is a model that I think will go down as a classic, as it breaks all the norms from Rolex and looks great and interesting doing it. This is also a model I featured in our Rolex 2024 predictions article as soon to be discontinued as well.
The dial on this watch with reference 126200 is stunning in person, it’s flashy and creative in a way that Rolex does not usually do. It goes against the grain of the Rolex incremental updates and conservatism. The dial on this watch is its main unique design with etched palm leaves overlaid on top of a gradient sunburst dial. The watch gives off a summery tropical vibe, but could be a fun wear during mid winter to add some much needed color and life to a cold and dark part of the year.
This dial is also offered in a Gold variant with palm leaves, but I believe the green one will be the real future collectible.
Important specs and features:
- Dial: Unique palm motif design, available in both gold and green.
- Case Size: Exclusively offered only in 36mm.
- Movement: Equipped with Rolex’s Calibre 3235, featuring a 70-hour power reserve.
- Material: Available in Oystersteel, and Rolesor versions.
- Bracelet: Options include Oyster and Jubilee bracelets.
Fluted Motif Dial
The fluted motif dial has a similar look to the palm dial but it’s a touch less daring, leaning more towards classic Rolex. It’s a little less unique, but it’s not any less flashy. The dial is covered in what Rolex calls a “fluted” design, much like the fluted bezel this dial has many small laser etched facets that reflect light in opposite to each other. This makes the dial very flashy in bright settings, but it’s surprisingly subdued in darker settings indoors or at night. This dial is offered in a few different colors as well, with both the green and blue variants taking the spotlight for most collectors.
Important specs and features:
- Dial: Features a “fluted” pattern that echoes the design of Rolex’s fluted bezels, with multiple facets for light reflection.
- Case Size: Available in standard Datejust sizes, including 36mm and 41mm.
- Movement: Models are powered by Rolex’s Calibre 3235.
- Material: Offered in materials like Oystersteel and Rolesor.
- Bracelet: Comes with either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.
Linen Dial
We touched on the modern references above, not it’s time to check out some of the vintage or Neo-vintage models. This are such elegant looking watches, but if you want to buy one you’ll be forced to acquire it through the grey market. The Linen dial is possibly one of the most well known Datejust references, it’s extremely popular due to the intricate design of the dial, kind of mimicking the weaving of a summer linen shirt.
The real special aspect of the linen dial is its tendency to patina over time. One of a watch enthusiasts favourite words ever, is patina. The watch can take on natural shifts in color from exposure to sun, oxygen, and humidity over many years. Not only does the Patina look really cool but it tells a story for the watch, again something that collectors love.
Important specs and features:
- Dial: Characterized by a textured pattern that resembles linen fabric, known for developing a unique patina over time.
- Vintage Availability: Predominantly found in vintage models from the 1960s and 1970s.
- Case Size: Only made in the classic 36mm case size.
- Movement: Vintage models feature various movements, including the Calibre 1570, depending on the year of manufacture.
- Material: Mostly available in stainless steel and yellow gold versions.
Pie-Pan Dial
The Pie-Pan dial is a weird one here, and probably my least favourite on the list. It still deserved a mention though due to its place in Rolex and Datejust history, and as a watch enthusiasts myself I understand we all have different tastes. This specific Datejust variants has a unique shape to the dial with the edges of the dial sloped downwards resembling a pie-pan. It’s quite a simple design feature and lends it a very retro look with a bubble like appearance. This strange but vintage dial also increases its legibility somewhat due to the magnified look of the dial.
Important specs and features:
- Dial: Notable for its “pie-pan” shaped design, with sloped edges giving a distinctive, vintage look.
- Era: Most commonly associated with Datejust models from the 1950s to the 1970s.
- Case Size: Only made in the 36mm case size.
- Movement: Various vintage movements, with the Calibre 1560 and 1570 being among the most common.
- Material: Available in stainless steel, yellow gold, and Rolesor combinations.
Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird
Last on our list we have something totally out of the ordinary in the Datejust line of watches. This one here is not a simple dial design, but rather an entire watch redesign known as the Turn-O-Graph., aka the “Thunderbird”. This is a Datejust that is trying to lean itself into the sports watch segment by implementing a bidirectional rotating bezel graduated to 60 minutes.
This bezel allows the wearer to measure elapsed time in the same way a dive watch does, it’s a neat feature for diver and pilots. With this function comes along some cool design changes for this variant, most notably the marker engravings on the bezel – a first of its kind for any Datejust. There’s also some really neat color changes as well, with the white dial and red seconds hand version jumping out as most unique. The rest of the watch is essentially classic Datejust with the iconic jubilee bracelet, and the fluting on the bezel, as well as the date and bubble window at 6’oclock. This model received its rather firey Thunderbird nickname due to its use in the United States Airforce Demonstration Squadron.
This is a very collectible Datejust model, but interestingly it’s still rather easy to course one of these for the time being.
Important specs and features:
- Bezel: Features a bidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale, distinguishing it from traditional Datejust models.
- Nickname: Known as the “Thunderbird” after its adoption by the USAF Thunderbirds demonstration team.
- Case Size: Originally introduced with a 36mm case size, aligning with the classic Datejust dimensions.
- Movement: Early models equipped with movements like the Calibre 1565, later models may feature more modern movements.
- Material: Offered in stainless steel, yellow gold, and Rolesor.
Conclusion
That about sums up our top 5 list of collective Datejust models. As you can see there’s plenty of option for all kinds of tastes, from classy and subdued to flashy and unique. These Datejust models give you something to think about other than the well known professional line from Rolex. This list was created with information that I’ve gathered doing my own research and talking with other experts in the Rolex community. I hope it helps you narrow down your hunt for your Datejust.
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