Yema is currently making some of the most exciting watches in the entry level luxury tier. Today they’ve just released the Granvelle Renaissance CMM.29, which we’ve secretly had on hand with us for the past 3 weeks. They’ve boxed themselves into a very compelling niche with this watch, I’d describe it as an offering in the “affordable high horology sports realm”, think Patek Aquanaut but on a budget.
I skimmed their provided press release to get a sense of what they’re aiming for with this watch, but furthermore, our review here is going to focus on my personal perspective after wearing and handling it for a significant amount of time. Right off the bat, I will say that I appreciate Yema’s steadfast approach to pushing the boundaries in terms of in-house movements and overall aesthetic design, squeezing every ounce of value from their streamlined production line to bring us very cool watches with reasonable price tags. A brand like Oris, whom make great watches, albeit with little to no foundational creativity, can take a lesson or two from the up and coming French brand.
Perfected Design & Backstory
The overall backstory, or framing, regarding the inception of the new Granvelle, is that of architectural influence from the Granvelle palace in Besancon, France – in Yema’s hometown. Various aspects of the watches case and dial share direct design cues from the majestic and rather stunning palace. Even the crown is cushion shaped, mimicking that of the case. The Yema team placed emphasis on perfected proportions to enhance fit without compromising its presence. They claim that their bespoke cushion case allows the watch to retain its small stature of 37.5mm but have the aura of a traditional 39mm round watch – and after experiencing the watch on wrist, I have to say, they aren’t wrong.
Brands love to connect a cool story to a new watch release, but at the end of the day it’s going to be the watch itself, detached from any emotive connection that’s really going to speak to collectors and enthusiasts. If we proceed to separate the story behind this new release, we’re still left with a very attractive, and compelling watch. Upon first handling it, I was immediately able to tell that the watch is going to hit a sweet spot in terms of its sizing and styling. For my 6.5 inch wrist, it truly does not get much better than a 37.5mm case in a unique shape, especially with its compact lug to lug distance of 46.3mm. The watch is a striking 8.5mm thick, which is nearly a full 1mm thinner than my Rolex Land-Dweller 36.
The slopped cushion shaped bezel is very finely radial brushed, smooth enough to provide a satin like feel when you run your fingers over it, but prominent enough to catch the light in a fun way. The side of the case has some nice vertical engraving, adding a little decoration to what could have been an ordinary polished finish. Entering the dial area is a great example of a multi-step design, almost like visually entering a Roman arena. The chapter ring area is razor slim, allowing for three consecutive step down sections, descending into the center of the dial, which is ultimately finished with a beautiful motif inspired by the roof patterns found on the Granvelle palace.
Off to the left of the dial is a small nook in the hour-track, that’s been carved away to provide room for the small seconds sub-dial. The hour markers, which are tapered batons, are applied and quite small in statur to keep them in proportion with the rest of the dial design. The hour hand is recessed inside the center section of the dial, hovering over the motif section, but at the same level as the final stepped section. The minutes hand is long and slender, while also being raised above the tallest step of the dial. The overall design is expertly implemented and provides an incredible amount of depth for a small watch.
Micro Rotor Driven Movement
Yema wouldn’t be what they are without their very impressive in-house movements. This watch here is sporting the Caliber CMM.29, which looks nearly identical to the CMM.20 in the Superman Slim we reviewed here, and it’s viewable through the exhibition caseback. The real attraction to this movement is its use of a micro-rotor, which is very aesthetically pleasing to observe in action, with its thick, stout demeanour, as it swings around in its small compartment.
As I’ve experienced with other Yema movements in the past, their attention to detail, and architecture, continues to deliver the longer you observe. The bridges on the CMM.29 are rhodium plated and galvanized, ultimately being decorated in a Côtes de Genève sunray pattern tying the watch together, which to me gives off the vibe of an affordable and sporty high horology watch.
Not only does the movement look fantastic, but it’s holding some great specs as well, with near chronometer grade performance of -3/+7 seconds accuracy, a generous 70 hours power reserve, and a tendency to be fairly anti-magnetic. Another very attractive and unique point of this movement is its location of assembly being 100% designed, manufactured, and assembled in Morteau, France. A nice breath of fresh air away from Switzerland.
I will mention one thing I didn’t love, and that’s the audibility of the micro rotor in action, which I found noisier than some full size rotors. I’m hoping this is isolated to my specific sample, otherwise I’m sure it’s a simple fix with Yema’s watchmakers.
Final Thoughts
It’s really great to see a brand outside of Switzlerand, but still within Europe, pushing the boundaries in terms of creative design, without compromising on meticulous craftsmanship. While brands like Christopher Ward are at the forefront of mass produced watchmaking experimentation, Yema takes it a step further to prioritize their watchmaking skill without ignoring heritage. While this may be to the detriment of sheer brand size and production capacity, this is what enthusiasts truly cherish in the end – a brand that’s focusing on whats important to create a watch with meaning.
Like many of Yema’s modern offerings, this new release offers immaculate fit, finish, and wearability at the reasonable price tag of 2100 euros. They’ve positioned themselves within a very unique segment of the watch industry, and the Granvelle Renaissance is just another example of this.
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