We’re no stranger to the very well known Legend Diver from Longines. Having reviewed it on multiple occasions, including the reference L3.674.4.50.6, a 42mm variant, back in 2018. More recently, Longines had taken a step in the right direction with the release of the smaller, and perfectly proportioned 39mm reference L3.764.4.50.0 in 2023. Just a couple days ago, for some reason, Longines felt if was the right decision to revert back to the larger, albeit more faithful to the original 42mm case sizing, with what is now dubbed the Legend Diver 59. Not only has the sizing been inflated, but it also has a few aesthetic tweaks to the dial that we’ll discuss below.
Why The Size Increase?
The only legitimate reason I see for the size increase on the new Legend Diver 59 is to bring it back to its roots, as the original Legend Diver was released in 1959 with a 42mm case size. One could also argue that Longines is also trying to capture some of the larger wrist size market, but this is quite a weak argument especially considering the current industry trend is leaning towards smaller classic sizing with a focus on proper proportions. This new release seems to be going against the grain in all regards, not quite as abysmal as the 42mm Conquest Chronograph, but still a peculiar design choice.
Not only is the LD59 stated as 42mm on paper, but reports suggest that is wears even larger than a regular 42mm watch. The wide open dial, long lugs, large domed crystal, and essentially bezelless design all contribute to an oversized wearing experience. Surprisingly, the watch maintains a decent thickness of 12.85mm, which isn’t all that bad considering the rest of the specs, and the use of caliber L888.6 custom manufactured by ETA.
In a world flooded with larger divers, and with the average wrist sizing being under 7 inches, this could prove to be a detriment to the sales of this watch. I’m going to assume most collectors, and general watch consumers, will simply flock to the 39mm version for a more comfortable and tailored fit on wrist.
Minute Dial Tweaks
Collectors will be happy, or possibly annoyed to hear, that the dial has gone through some minor adjustments to bring it closer in appearance to the original LD. It’s now slightly more retro looking, and just a touch more unique, due to the addition of texturing on the dial. Unfortunately, with that also comes faux patina lume, which the 39mm variant did not have. Some of the fonts on the dial and internal bezel have been slightly adjusted to look a little more vintage as well, but almost imperceptible. The overall look is that of a dial with a little more breathing room due to the size increase, and very minor faux vintage tweaks.
It’s really too bad that Longines didn’t just leave the lume white, the addition of texturing on the dial is enough to differentiate it tastefully and lean more into its heritage. Many collectors probably would have preferred a 39mm version of this watch without faux patina lume.
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